Lola Lamp

Created By Fraser | January 17th, 2019

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This funky floor lamp stands 70" tall. There is a lot of cutting involved due to the size and the intricacy of the shade design.

2 hr

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Furniture

NameSize
LolaLampStand_layout.svg
16 kB
LolaLampStandR.svg
8 kB

Full 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" Plywood 12' extension chord or lamp wire Lamp socket with pull chain switch White tissue paper Wood glue Glue stick Paint Finish for edge
Shaper Origin Clamps 23 Gauge pin-nailer (optional)
Determine the actual thickness of your material. The SVGs are made for exactly 1/2". You can either adjust them on the tool with offsets, or use the material thickness parameter in the included Fusion360 files (if you do this, be sure to extend the ends of the lamp-wire channels in Adobe Illustrator or alike, after exporting your SVG). Note: the parts of the stand are made from gluing two layers together, so the slots to attach the stand and legs together are material thicknessx2. Stand: 1. Prime and paint the good side of your plywood. Use plenty of two sided tape on the painted side to attach it to a spoiler sheet painted side down such that you will be doing your cutting from the back side. 2. Shaper-tape the entire sheet and scan a new workspace. Place the "LolaLampStand_layout" file using a grid. It is just under 4'x8', check to see that it is placed so that none of the parts extend off of the plywood. 3. Cut with a 1/4" bit using the normal procedure for offsets and finishing passes. Make the channel for the lamp wire 1/4" deep. 4. Remove all tape, place the lamp wire in the channel of one side, and glue the two stand pieces together painted sides out, sandwiching the lamp wire in place. Leave the desired length of wire at the top for the height you want the shade to hang, as it doesn't slide through the channel once assembled. I used some 23 gauge pins to keep the pieces perfectly aligned wile clamping, and clamping cauls to prevent damaging the paint. 5. Do the same with the leg pieces. 6. Square off the inside corners in the joint slots so that the pieces can slide completely together. I thought this looked better than dog-bone cuts. 7. Sand the edges perfectly flush and apply finish to cut edge. 8. Attach the legs to the stand. Shade: While I have included a SVG of the pieces all layed out together, I recommend doing one piece at a time, using the SVGs of the individual parts to enable you to use pieces of leftover plywood from cutting the stand, which is already painted. 1. Set up a Shaper-taped board of the thickness of your material. The pieces are small enough that you wont need to put Shaper-tape on the actual work piece. 2. Cut four "fins", one "top hub" and one "bottom hub". I used a 1/4" bit and left the rounded inside corners that resulted. For cutting the fins: the larger spaces cut out of the grille design will result in small waste pieces inside which could come loose and be dangerous. An easy way to get around this is to start with an offset of about 0.2", which will enable you to use the helix function to take out this material full depth in one go, and is much quicker than multiple passes in "pocket" mode. 3. Use a glue-stick to attach tissue paper to the back side of each fin, covering the openings in the grille. 4. Assemble the shade and hang on the lamp socket. Be sure that the lamp socket is installed well enough to be able to hold the weight of the shade.

This project is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution - NonCommerical - Share - Alike license